Route 66: Chow Time (Part 1)

I was determined not to come back to the UK two dress sizes bigger; it was a hard challenge.

Here is the first instalment of my more memorable food observations from our trip doing the route in Oct/Nov 2012, starting in no particular, helpful order.  

Johnny Rockets (Santa Monica) – Malts  

This was my first few hours in the States and my first experience of a malt shake.  I have a strong sweet tooth so I had a Very Cherry malt shake and H had a Strawberry Oreo Crumble one for $5.49 each.  
O.M.G. it was great! 

I don’t think my impression of it was down to the fact it revived me as I was flagging from H’s regime - no sleep on the plane and only do so with the new time zone as late in the day as possible.  I was a zombie as you can see in the pic.  
I love the old diner theme and the mini juke-boxes that are placed at every booth/table as well as the counter.  Interestingly there were a lot of old British songs to select from rather than old American hits.

I have had malt shakes in Ed’s in the UK since (I’d never noticed Ed’s until now! Where have I been??) and they are NOT a patch on the ones in the States...

Barney’s Beanery (Santa Monica) – Smores

A Route 66 historical landmark, Barneys was apparently once frequented by Ms. Monroe for the chilli.   This place was always busy when we had a stroll into town and we visited on a Saturday night, sitting out at the front so we could see the street entertainment and the passersby.  This was good as we had a while to wait.  I’ll write more about Santa Monica and the area in another post later.  The menu is extensive to the point of being too big!  For dessert we sore Smores listed.  After asking what on earth it was and being informed it’s a typical American thing we ordered to share for $5.95.

It is basically marshmallows for toasting, chocolate and biscuits and what I’d term ‘interactive’ food like fondue.  You toast your marshmallows, get them gooey, put them with the chocolate between the biscuits and stuff in your mouth!  I wasn’t overly impressed to be honest so let H carry on and took a picture.  I was more interested in the pink, flaming gel that came with it that you use to toast your marshmallows with.  
Where can I get more of that just for the sake if it?!

Panda Garden (Needles) – Chinese

Sometimes you just want a quick, decent size meal that’s not fussy and doesn’t cost the earth.  When we got into Needles it was late, we were tired and starving.  This place fitted the bill and was open.  Basically Chinese food is the cheapest we’ve found in the states and was always good.  We ate a huge meal for 2 with alcoholic drinks here for less than the equivalent of £14. Bargain.

Shelly’s Route 66 Cafe (Cuba, MO) – Meatloaf

402 S Lawrence St, Cuba, MO 65453, USA.

We stopped by for a late lunch at this small diner on the route - Washington Street, Cuba, Missouri.  Run by a lovely lady, it was busy with lots of local people who seemed to be regulars.  I recall they advertised their Face Book presence  and they produce their own souvenir t-shirt.  The food was 'home-made’, generous portions and tasty.  I can only find the card receipt so not sure how much the individual menu items were but I had memorable meatloaf, with mash, gravy and green beans (yes vegetables!) and it was great.  A good place to stop.  Closed on Mondays I think.

Yippee-Ei-O Steak House (Tusayan,Grand Canyon) – Evening meal

We were staying at the Holiday Inn down the road and it was a 5 minute walk between there and a convenience store for provisions – an off-the shelf sinus spray so strong that the MOD would insist on CBRN training to use it over here and an apple that cost me $1.89!! Really!

We were hungry so stopped off at this tacky-looking place in between which was heaving.  Seated first by the door where it was bloody draughty we got moved further in where I was swamped by the barbecue sauce smell that churns me so.  Here-on-in assume I wasn’t best pleased.  The food was OK actually and there was a lot of it but it wasn’t fantastic.  I think H was mentally scoring each place we ate in by the quality of the T-bones and this one was middling I recall.  The meal and drinks were only $40 but half of eating out is the service.  Just because you are down the road from THE most famous and biggest natural phenomena and national park in the world and you’re an almost captive audience it doesn’t mean you should accept and tip for OK food served scrappily. 

Buca di Beppo (Chicago) – Coffee

A long-established Italian-American restaurant with a fascinating sumptuous decor, walls covered in artwork and photos from the 40s and 50s – if I didn’t know any better I’d say this is what the Frankie and Benny's UK chain has tried to emulate but is only a third of the way there.  The clientele that Saturday in Beppo’s were rich ladies who lunch and, with the coffee not even listed on the menu, we felt out of place and poor.  Well worth visiting for a coffee and a good bog at the pictures on the walls but the menu was too expensive for us.

Muskrat Coffee (Tijeras, New Mexico) – The best coffee we have EVER tasted

Two guys have set up to blend and roast coffee, catching the local commuters into Albuquerque.

They seem to be in the middle of nowhere to us but the guy who served us was using an iPad till system as his colleague, the roaster, painted the outside of the building as part of setting up their business.  They are next to the Hitchin’ Post Feed store right on the route and have a Face Book presence.

We like coffee and drink a lot of it.  We’ve tried lots and this was fantastic.

When you drive past here, turn around, go back and have some! 

Route 66: Bottle Tree Ranch, CA

If you do Route 66 you MUST stop here!

Yes that IS a toilet seat!

This post is a bit out of sync with our trip but I have been itching to share this.  Also there's no rule that says I have to post things in order eh?!

We'd had this attraction on our mental list of places to visit since watching the Billy Connolly DVD but it wasn't very clear exactly where it was.  Also bear in mind that we were doing it backwards and we found that so many of these places seem more noticeable as you drive towards them...from the East.  Consequently we had a lot of 'about turns'.
As it turned out, because there was just no traffic and we were on a straight road it was easy to pull over to the side when we saw the glinting glass constructions of the Bottle Tree Ranch.

Location for this is 24266 Oro Grande, National Trails Way, CA and it's pretty much half way between Victorville and Helendale.  That's the best location information for it on the web that is!

Elmer, the creator, sculptor and engineer of this phenomena came out to greet us and is genuinely lovely, friendly and interested in the people who visit.  He admitted to a bit of current creative block so had taken the opportunity to go fishing for most of his time this year.  This is just over a decade's worth of artfully constructed bottles and things his father had collected during his lifetime.

It seems quirky, amusing, worth a look and intriguing before you visit.  The reality is amazing.  It's a very peaceful and, in a way, beautiful place.  Additionally, and not wanting to detract from the bottle trees, I had a wonderful encounter with a hummingbird here which will stay with me forever.

Photos are mostly courtesy of H.

Oh look it's the Mustang!

Route 66: A Sombre Sunday Start

We made our way to Santa Monica Pier on the Sunday morning to start the route.  Backwards obviously!

We were surprised to see that something had 'sprung up' on the beach over night so, after parking on the Pier - it costs $12 - we wandered over to see what was happening.

We found this quite upsetting and, whilst it's not an up-beat post and not specific to Route 66, we thought it important to take the photos and share this with people.

This is the Arlington West Memorial.  It is painstakingly set up for each Sunday next to the Santa Monica Pier by members of 'Veterans for Peace Los Angeles' The aim is to give awareness on the huge extent of the number of fallen and those who live with their injuries as a result of giving their services in the military.

 I feel there is very little interest in the activities of our British forces in general within the UK, only to the extent that our Government shouldn't waste the money and spend it elsewhere.  I'm certain there is hardly a consideration at all by people in the UK of the number of lives lost by the allied and  U.S forces or, indeed, those from Iraq or Afghanistan.

A signs reads 'If we were to acknowledge the number of Iraqi deaths the crosses would fill this entire beach'.






We personally had no idea of the number of US troops killed in comparison to the 438 members we have lost since 2001.
 Each white cross represents a single individual killed with each red cross symbolising 10 individuals.  The blue crosses are for each member of the Armed Services who had been killed that week.

Some more signs -
'American military in Afghanistan killed - 2,130.  Wounded or injured - 15,322.'  

'American military in Iraq killed - 4,486.  Wounded or injured - 32,227.'

You're invited to walk amongst the memorial where some family members, in their grief, have decorated single crosses with personal items and photos of their loved ones.  It didn't seem appropriate to walk in amongst the crosses which were set out perfectly spaced apart.

The volunteers had a stand set up to the side with leaflets and items for sale that would go towards helping to support veterans.  There was also a large board of names - a role of each person who has been killed since 2001.

It was surprising that the military suicides were recognised on the 'headstone'.  If you read the 'Veterans for Peace' web site they give more information and also on a recent CBS investigation across the States, it was found the average number of veterans taking their own lives in a year totals approximately 120.  
This is is all tragic and not something to be hidden and why 'Veterans for Peace' exist to raise awareness of the needs and support that veterans require when they return from active service.

Random Stuff: Grand Anarchy in Bloomsbury

Saturday was a big event - the 4th Grand Anarcho-Dandyist Ball!

I'd known about it since last year and after reading The Chap I was determined that we should attend.   As it panned out, The Bexster (or should that be 'Betty Rogers'??) and I accompanied ourselves to the Bloomsbury Ballroom just in time to catch the tail end of the performance by 'Space Dog' with Sarah Angliss playing the haunting theramin to a captivated audience.

The venue was excellent.  I loved the Art Deco details, the doors reminding me so much of those at the Hoover Dam but you'll have to wait for that post!

We had a great time checking out everyone's outfits - the dress code specifically this year was 'Eccentric; Eclectic; Electric; Esoteric' and, as I understand it, slightly more lenient than previous years.  We enjoyed several cocktails throughout the evening and even a cheese plater and cake when we became peckish!

I especially enjoyed, along with the crowd, Mr B. the Gentleman Rhymer.  He was very entertaining, rapping in received pronunciation - similar to Peter Sellers' 'A Hard Day's Night' really!  He sang modern songs with this twist, accompanying himself on the banjolele.  He calls it 'Chap-Hop'.  You have to check him out here - http://www.gentlemanrhymer.com

The headline act were Albert Ball's Flying Aces, playing popular rag-time tunes that got practically the whole room dancing!  They were joined by guest singer Patricia Hammond who provided a captivating old-time air to the performance.  I would like to see her perform again.

We aim to attend next year with our Chaps to show them off and I am already plotting how to avoid the dreaded night bus journey and make the transition into Sunday simpler!



Anyway, here's some pictures of not-very-good-quality.

The night bus journey takes it toll...

Route 66: The Mustang

Warning - a long and picture-heavy post!

We’d had our hearts set on hiring a Mustang convertible, no matter what the impracticalities.  H is a huge Mustang fan; I like them; it seemed fitting for the trip and it was important that we did it with some style.  Under no circumstances would a Toyota Prius have been acceptable!

We were travelling from late October into November so the chances of having the top down were likely to be few and far between we thought.  Additionally, we weren't sure that we’d fit our luggage all in the boot.  H had previous experience of an earlier model and was hopeful but we still had reservations.  As we were picking the vehicle up from the Los Angeles Alamo rental lot we had a good chance of getting one compared to doing the route from Chicago so when we ventured out with the paperwork to select a car our hopes faded when there wasn't one.  We made enquiries, stuck to our stubborn English guns and waited, eventually in the shade, until someone decided to return one!  In the end we waited about an hour and a half but it didn't seem that long as we chatted until a freshly washed black Ford Mustang convertible was brought round to the front for us. 

Big smiles! Well done Alamo! 

I would say that I have more than a passing interest in cars but I admit that I know very little indeed.  Therefore the following description is IMHO and my own personal view of the car during our trip.

This vehicle was the latest 2012 V6 auto-transmission Ford Mustang 2-door convertible in black, registered in Ohio.  It had just under 20,000 miles on the clock at collection and we were about to put a few more on it before we gave it back!

As I’d never driven on the wrong side of the car let alone the wrong side of the road in an unfamiliar land I declined to have a go straight away whilst I got over the newness of everything, my jet lag (yes I got it going that way!) and familiarised myself with the road rules and local driving habits.  I don’t think H minded hogging it for the first few days around Santa Monica too much...

The driving experience – I'm used to and prefer to drive a big car that I can’t see the front or rear end of so this didn't feel overly big to drive for me and manoeuvring it round tight roads full of traffic such as in Santa Fe wasn't an issue.  The turning circle is excellent on it and what I’d want on any car.   I did enjoy the ‘laziness’ of the automatic again after several years of manual which was a bonus as my brain refused to accept I couldn't change gear with my left hand.  I had a go with the cruise control on the way up to Las Vegas to ‘save my knee’ but, whilst it was easy to use once I’d worked out how many times to press the buttons on the steering wheel control, I felt it detracted from my experience and I wanted my money’s worth. 

I took it round the well-known steep and winding Black Mountains pass out of California into Arizona through Golden Shores, Gold Road, Oatman and into Kingman.  Whilst there were some hairy moments from unexpected sharp bends, the Mustang took them in its stride in a way I can only describe as ‘neatly’ and responsively.  Just as well really eh!

One of my favourite pics from the trip

 On a nice bit of straight or when we had to get on the Interstate you can put your foot down and it is quite responsive with the high revs kicking in giving a sound to make you smile but you know it’s an automatic as it has to think about it first.  It was pleasing that other drivers got out of our way when they saw us approaching quickly in the rear view and, when H was driving he would get as much out of it as he could.  Assuming it’s because it’s a hire car, it was governed to 110 MPH maximum but he kept checking on a regular basis to see if it would change its mind...!  At about 80-90 MPH it was a comfortable and sedate drive.  This car didn't feel sporty and I think I drove it as if I had Miss Daisy in the back.   The real thrills are obviously going to be had from the more impressive V8 model and up that have 2 to 3 times the BHP (and other things under the bonnet/hood) aren't they?!  I’d probably scare myself in one of those.  I think this convertible cruiser is about 300 BHP....I think.

Boot - The boot was surprisingly roomy even with the reduction for the vinyl roof and, with a little planning and ingenuity, H was able to fit every piece of our luggage in that boot to the amazement of Hotel  doormen, valets, Alamo employees and general nosey people along the journey!

Topless - Taking the roof down was extremely hassle-free with two levers above the sun visor un-clipping whilst stationary and then the control above the rear-view mirror, folding the top flush with the top of the boot section.  Putting it up was quicker but got tricky as the passenger-side connector wasn't always obliging so there was usually some shoving about and re-seating to do or the lever wouldn't click in and it had a tendency to start letting air in as you drove along.  It’s probably due to some earlier rough mistreatment but wasn't more than an inconvenience.  In the end we had lots of top-down time, wrapping up and braving the wind or chilliness on cooler days or as the sun went down.  We could have had it down quite a bit more at times but tended to err on the side of caution when we felt it inappropriate or on the verge of rain.  I was impressed, when it was all closed up properly (which was most of the time actually), with the relative quiet in the cockpit considering there’s only thin vinyl between you and the wind outside.  Visibility with the roof up was poor out the back and rear sides almost non-existent but typical of a convertible soft top.

Interior – This was black leather upholstery, stitched in white with black plastic trim and black carpeting.  It’s a 4-seater which is great so long as the rear passengers have long bodies so they can see about and no legs (I'm visualising E.T. here).  There was enough room in the rear foot wells to store water, camera bag, jackets, food, etc which was fine for our needs.  My first impression was as a front seat passenger and this was disconcerting as, at 5’4”, I was looking at the dash, the wing mirror and the headrests.  That’s actually how a lot of my photos came out.  The passenger seat on this model didn't have an option to raise the seat level and as you’re really sat ‘in’ the seat I found it hard to reach anything.  Until we found a suitable cushion in Wal-Mart, I had to use my folded waterproof jacket as a ‘booster seat’!  The driver’s seat had the electric adjustment to rise up and thank god it did!  I had to have it raised all the way up and nearly all the way forward to reach everything comfortably.  It would have been useful to have memory seat settings for ‘tall ‘n’ lanky’ and ‘short ‘n’ dumpy’ as every changeover was preceded by much adjustment and I know I didn't always get it just right.  The interior lighting had ambient blue lights in the front foot well which reminded me of those under-lights on chav cars but seemed acceptable and quite appealing in the Mustang.  I tended to use this as a map-reading light; the glove compartment light either didn't work or wasn't there in the first place.

  

The centre console controls layout seemed well-thought out although there was the comfort of access to several controls on the steering wheel.  The central storage compartment was plenty big enough to store our essentials and houses the iPod connector.  The two- cup holder between the seats was handy but set at two levels, one travellers drink was bound to fall over whilst the other seated comfortably.  Weird but must be a reason for that design.

The driver display and computer could be adjusted to show a huge variety of data to impress the greatest of car geeks and also a change of dial back- lighting colour (to suit ones mood?)  The speedo’ and rev counter dials were stylishly white yet curiously off-set to the left which, I felt, made it hard to tell what speed I was doing.  I found it easier to tell from the satnav in the end.  Overall the interior felt robust and one of  quality.

ICE – I had a go at reading up on the entertainment system as we had a few issues with the AUX and when we used the iPods we couldn't always navigate to specific albums, playlists or tracks we wanted to hear.  Really frustrating!  I couldn't get the gist of the Sirius system.  It’s like DAB but via satellite and you can select separate albums or pre-recorded concerts to listen to.  We mostly listened to the local rock stations which gave us a few amusing Sam and Dean Winchester moments...you had to be there really...

Looks – I'm not a fan of convertibles but even this doesn't distract from the great Mustang look and it is a subtle head-turner.  In the UK it would be a talking point but I was surprised at the looks and comments (positive) we did get along the way considering they’re two a penny (dime??) over there in most states.  Only Missouri was noticeably lacking.  The design of the back lights and the front end are pleasing with that slight 'meanness' but I prefer the solid, ‘in-your-face’ looks of the bigger coupés.

San Jon to Glen Rio, NM

In summary we both really enjoyed driving the Mustang and would do so happily again.  It was a drive that made us smile and H wanted to take it home.  I think we were very lucky with the weather and having the convertible added to the experience of the trip.  I would recommend one for doing the route.  It’s a more practical a car than one would think with the drivability, acceptable storage and with about 33 MPG there are worse gas guzzlers in the UK.  If I had the money to buy one of these and fuel use and cost wasn't an issue I wouldn't as there are others I’d rather have but if someone turned up on the doorstep with the keys to one for free I’d take it, keep it and put up with it being a left-hand drive on UK roads for as long as possible.  

There now follows a short series of gratuitous Mustang porn pics, mostly taken by H.  I thank you.

The Rock Cafe, Stroud, Oklahoma

Route 66 – What and Why?

For those who are unaware and want to know, here, in my own words, is some history and description of what Route 66 was and is today.

Route 66, sometimes also referred to as the Main Street of America or the Will Rogers Highway and part of the National Scenic Byway, was a network of evolved and unpaved byways that was officially incorporated as the Chicago to Los Angeles highway in 1926.  The route number was hotly debated.  Some states didn't want a number that would confuse travellers with close or similar numbers to those that already existed.  The number ‘66’ was available; it was easy to remember and had a good ring to it.  The route became Route 66!  

Casualty in a big ol' hole

At that point the network stretched from Illinois through Missouri, Kansas, Texas, Oklahoma, New Mexico and Arizona to California for 2448 miles. The alignment of the route sections has changed several times over the years so it is not possible to confirm its official length in miles now.  It served as the main artery for commercial purposes and, through the ‘dust bowl’ and depression of the 1930’s provided a migration route for farming families from Kansas and Oklahoma to find suitable work and a new life in California.  The road surfaces were not fully paved until the late 30’s so it would have been a difficult journey, especially in the extremes of weather where cars would get stuck in mud or run off the road and be at the mercy of a rare horse and cart to rescue them.  





As the route became popular, even settlements would up-route and move closer to the route to pick up the passing trade.  One example is Tucumcari in New Mexico, which, as a settlement, had previously existed several miles to the north.  

Once a busy service, now a 66 ruin

As traffic increased, so did the road-side trade as the vehicles would need rest stops for engine cooling, fuel and passengers would need food and rest.  Some of these ‘trading posts’ became very well known; some still exist; some are in ruins.The arrival of the first Interstate Highways from 1956, modelled on German autobahns, immediately impacted the daily trade of those businesses along Route 66 where sections of road were ‘demoted’ to business loops, linking the towns to the interstate.  They became almost immediately empty of traffic and passing custom. 

These ARE the knives you're looking for!

Where business owners had the acumen, imagination and sheer desperation to try and save their livelihoods, unique Route 66 tourist attractions evolved to maintain some level of competition and hope of survival.  Advertising hoardings would invite vacationing families travelling along the route and Interstate to stop off at the next exit and pay them a visit, promising that it would be worth it!  



The giant ‘muffler men’ spread along the route with their mysterious origins are good examples of how the quirkiness of Route 66 emerged.  

Gallup's giant; 'fiddler on the roof'??

There were casualties of this progression where some businesses just couldn't survive. Glen Rio once boasted the First & Last Motel in Texas on a stretch of the route which still has a narrow central reservation and existed along-side family-run filling stations, cafe’s, gift store and garage.  Once the I-40 opened, it became one of the ‘ghost towns’ of Route 66.  Ironically it is the opposite side of the Interstate to the bustling Russell’s travel centre that has a free and wonderful Car and Americana museum.  They share the same exit but supposedly drivers didn’t choose to make that extra few hundred yards to visit those old businesses. 

Glen Rio 'ghosts'

 Route 66 was decommissioned in 1985.  Even by then there were several associations campaigning to save it and still continue to do so, run by die-hard flailing gas station and motel owners.  Some states, such as Kansas, have ‘adopted’ sections which boost their heritage status and campaigners continue to push for this acknowledgement on a wider basis.  There are short sections in some states that have had the number 66 re-instated.  During my short time there we realised how much of an impact every US president has had across the States, either during their time in office or after.  Well Bill Clinton, aside from his more infamous activities, set up the National Route 66 Preservation Bill in 1999.  This provided $10 million of grants to restore and preserve some of the key historic features along the original route.   In 2008 the World Monuments Fund added to this so that gas stations, motels and cafes would be saved from becoming derelict.  

U-Drop Inn, Shamrock, Texas

 Some of the best art deco architecture in the USA has been preserved because of this funding.  Where possible, local towns have made use of them such as the famous U-Drop Inn of Shamrock in Texas where the Information Centre and Chamber of Commerce reside. 

The beautiful cafe and fuel pumps sit as silent monuments to a by-gone era for the town and the route.  It means that they are still here for us to enjoy and wonder about the people who have filled up their road-weary and filthy vehicles with fuel, slid into a booth with their companions to enjoy a meal and a coffee or three.

New career as a pump attendant?

Did you know that Will Rogers was a much revered Broadway entertainer from Claremore, near Tulsa, Oklahoma who patronised the small businesses along the route as he gigged the vaudeville halls across the States in the early 20^th century?  He later moved into journalism, radio, politics and the movies, becoming one of the biggest and best-loved celebrities in the world during the 20s and 30s.  Without realising it, we are still influenced by him as he is the origin of several famous quotes as a humorist.  The Route 66 Association and MGM dedicated a memorial to him in Santa Monica, California, marking one of the official route ends in the early 50’s.  One of his many famous quotes was that he’d ‘never met a man he didn’t like on Route 66’.  This is displayed on a road marker along the route in his home town.

Did you know that the road stencils of the well-known Route 66 ‘chevron’ originated to make drivers aware they’re on the route because souvenir hunters would steal the road-side signs so often?

Did you also know that Radiator Springs in the Pixar animated film ‘Cars’ was based on the ‘ghost towns’ of Route 66?

If you didn't then you do now!